References to ferrets, or at least very similar animals, goes back many centuries. Though not identified exactly, something very like ferrets is mentioned in a play by Aristophanes and essays by Aristotle over 2,500 years ago. More certain are the many pieces of evidence to ferrets, both in writing and paintings, in the late Middle Ages.

There are references in the 13th century to ferreters who were part of the 'staff' of the Royal Court in England. Between 1200AD and 1400AD ferrets were a favorite pet of royalty. But, 'pet' has a slightly different meaning when applied to an animal many centuries past.

Animals were expected to 'earn their keep' in times past. They were probably bred for that very purpose. With the growth of rabbit and mice populations, and the increase in grain stores and agriculture, an animal that would hunt down those who fed on them was helpful. Ferrets were very adept at sliding into burrows and flushing out rabbits. They could also easily chase out a mouse to waiting cats.

Which type of ancestor is difficult to pinpoint precisely. Because their tiny bones decay so thoroughly, it's hard to find fossil evidence to trace their exact history. The leading theory is they were descendant from Western European polecats.

Scientists have numerous clues to work with in trying to verify that. They can examine general body characteristics (so called 'morphology'), and compare with other species. They can look at teeth and make good guesses about diet, which helps them narrow down location and type. They can examine fat distribution within the body and compare to genetic cousins. And, they can examine actual DNA and make careful comparisons and distinctions with known species.

Scientists have assigned ferrets, like most animals, a Latin name as well. They're part of a family called 'mustelids', which derives from the Latin 'mus' (for 'mouse'). But they are not rodents. The full name is Mustela Putorius Furo. Putor refers to their odor and furo is derived from the word for thief. The last suggests that even centuries ago ferrets had been commonly observed to snatch items and hide them.

Gradually, through the 19th century, they evolved more and more as working companions. They have even been trained to string cables through pipes in the North Sea and to run wires through small conduits in jets. By the time of the 1970s and later, they became purely pets for millions of people. That is, animals were kept around solely for the joy of their company.

And, that may be the best answer of all to 'Where Do Ferrets Come From?'. They come from our desire to interact with these funny, friendly and fantastic creatures.

Often, humans are a part of that social group. Ferrets have been domesticated pets for possibly as long as 2,500 years. They were a favorite among royalty in the late Middle Ages.

As members of the large weasel family, they are cousins to 65 different species, including badgers, otters, ermine and mink, and - of course - weasels. They're sleek, with short fur and come in a variety of brown colors with black highlights. There's even an albino form, with all white fur and pink eyes. Males are typically around 18 inches and 2.5 lbs, females slightly smaller.

The Latin name is appropriate since ferrets will often take toys, food or other small objects and hide them. No one has a definitive answer on why, but like squirrels and others it probably derives from the need to hoard food. That behavior helps them feed through lean times, especially winter.

Often mistakenly believed to have an unpleasant odor, they do give off a natural musky scent from glands. Those glands are often removed by commercial ferret vendors, but the odor is just as often a buildup of smells from improper care. Many pet stores and some ferret owners will simply put a few ferrets in a cage with food and water - sometimes with a litter box - and then forget about it for days.

But ferrets, unlike cats, require a little more care than that to keep the odors down and keep the ferret in optimal health. They're prone to a number of diseases if they don't get the proper diet.

That diet should consist of high protein and high fat foods, such as fresh chicken or commercial ferret food with around 38% meat-based protein and 15% fat. For the first few years after ferrets became popular household pets, owners would feed them wet or dry cat food. But that diet is best for cats, not ferrets. If fresh meat, which is the ferrets natural diet, isn't an option then a carefully balanced commercial ferret pet food is preferable.

Ferrets are, like dogs, intelligent animals and can be trained to perform a number of amusing, and sometimes useful, tasks. Ferrets were used in the preparation of recent Royal ceremonies to string cable through conduits. That task is a natural for these slender hunters who for centuries have been used to hunt rabbits down holes.

Possibly descendant from (and often hybrid bred with) polecats, they can be unintentionally fierce. They sleep for 18 hours a day, but when awake are very active and love to play-bite. They've often been observed to engage in something owners have dubbed a 'war dance'. The ferrets stand up on their hind legs, and jerk their heads and move sideways.

Fun, loyal, cute and smart. Now that's the kind of pet everyone should have.

You'll need to make sure the pair are not too closely related, as mother and son for example, in order to reduce the chances of birth deformities. Kits often don't survive birth, and that can be heartbreaking for the breeder and any fascinated children nearby. Vet bills will increase substantially, as each kit will need at least his or her first shot, and possibly a second one, before they're sold or given away.

Still want to try? Ok, here are some signs to watch for.

The first essentials are, of course, two breeding ferrets – one male, one female. This isn't as obvious as it sounds, since many ferrets are spayed or neutered. A neutered male is usually easy to spot, but a spayed female may not be. But once the female, called a 'jill', comes into heat, it will become clear.

Female ferrets are polyestrous. They can have more than one heat per season. In the Northern Hemisphere, that's March through August, on average. If they don't mate, they can remain in heat for the entire time. Look for an enlarged vulva and wait two weeks before introducing the male, known as a hob.

Hobs who sense a jill in heat act a lot like dogs, only more so. They run around restlessly, urinate then drag themselves through it, and generally make a pest of themselves around the female, if they're allowed to. Once they begin, the fun really starts.

An aroused hob will grab a jill by the neck and drag her around, then mount. A willing female allows this, but sometimes it's hard to tell if they are willing or not. Just make sure the male doesn't get too rough.

Once the male mounts, there is no safe way to separate them. The male has a 'barbed' penis bone that locks the pair together. So be careful. The actual insemination takes only a few minutes, though they may stay coupled for much longer. Once the hob is done, the pair will often eat and drink, then begin the process over again later.

Check the female for any deep puncture wounds, and treat them as needed. Males will often bite a female on the neck and scratch them during mating. The process can be fascinating to watch, but it definitely isn't 'cute' or pretty.

If mating has been successful, the jill's vulva will return to normal in a couple of weeks. Gestation lasts about 42 days and, about halfway through, you'll notice the female become larger and gain weight. She'll often pluck her hair out at the tail or elsewhere.

Make sure you're prepared with all the necessary equipment and tools for helping out during birth. Seek the advice of your veterinarian.

Ferrets were trained centuries ago to hunt rabbits and mice to rid rodents from areas where food was stored. Grain in particular was a problem. But, ferrets are meat eaters, and they can get down vary narrow burrows, so they were perfect for the job.

In modern times, ferrets have been trained to string wires and cables through conduits on jets, and in setting up computer and telecommunications facilities. They love to explore tunnels and getting them to carry a light wire while they do it is a natural extension of a natural behavior.

That's the key to training your ferret. Work with their nature, not against it.

Litter training, is a good example. To the ferret that paper or pellet filled litter box isn't (at first sight) for pooping, it's for playing in. They love to shove a nose down into the pellets, like they were snorkeling. It will take good timing on your part to watch for their backing up behavior - signaling they're about to go - then moving them to the litter box.

Ferrets, like dogs, prefer not to eat where they eliminate. Given little choice either species will, but their tendency is to avoid it. Separate as far as possible the litter box from the food and water area. If they do eliminate near the food, clean it immediately and wash any cloth nearby. Any remaining scent will encourage them to use that area again. If necessary, move the food and water to a new spot.

Toys and treats are helpful adjuncts for training. But they need to be of the right type, in order to ensure the ferret's health and safety.

Ferrets have very sharp teeth and claws, and they love to chew and scratch. That means any toy has to stand up to a lot. Avoid soft rubber or other toys that can break off small pieces easily. Ferrets are exploratory and will eat things that are not good for them. Styrofoam is particularly dangerous, but even ordinary plastics can be a problem.

When using soft cloth as part of the training kit, try to avoid materials that can produce small dust-like particles. Ferrets have sensitive respiratory systems and inhaling the fibers or small granules can cause infection.

It will take many repetitions, with a lot of patient reminders, to teach your ferret to understand the purpose you intend. That goes for both behaviors and objects. The ferret just wants to explore or play. You want it to do so in a certain way, and with a certain object. Getting on the same page, will require a lot of inventiveness on your part.

Remember that physical punishment and loud voices encourage fear, not compliance. You'll need to keep your temper, just as you would with a very young child, while remembering they are ferrets not humans. That's not easy, but the reward is peace of mind for you and your ferret.

In the wild, ferrets evolved to feed on a diet of rabbits, mice and other small rodents, though they've been known to eat insects. As such, they need a diet high in protein and fat. A food that contains around 38% meat protein and 15% fat is preferred. Note that not all proteins are created equal. Meat protein and vegetable protein are chemically different and ferrets don't digest the latter well at all.

Fresh meat is a popular option with ferret owners. Ferrets will often prefer chicken to beef, though. Mutton is a possible choice, but it's high in fat, so take care. Naturally, any fresh meat has to be obtained from a quality source to ensure it's free of parasites, bacteria and toxins.

Some ferret owners will feed their pet day-old chicks, mice and other live or recently killed animals. Even rabbits can form part of their diet, as it did in the wild, and ground up can make for a balanced meal. From a dietary perspective, that's all fine, again provided that the source of those foods is reliable.

Commercial dry ferret food is another option and pets will do just fine with it. Again, it's important to check the label to ensure that it contains at least 35% protein from meat sources, and 15% fat. They should also be relatively low in fiber, 3% or less. In a pinch, they can be fed cat food for short periods. But the protein and fat levels, and other ingredients, are not ideally balanced for ferrets.

Many ferrets are fond of sweets, enjoying raisins and bananas. But any treat like that should be given in very small quantities and only occasionally. Ferrets, whose name is derived from the Latin for 'thief', earned the appellation by their habit of hoarding small objects.

Ensure that any raisin or other small treat is eaten before giving any more. It's possible for them to store up enough to present dietary imbalance that can lead to stomach upset or health problems.

Let out of their cages, ferrets can be extremely curious and clever about finding food (or things that aren't food). They'll roll over on their backs and claw at cabinets to open them. That hurts your cabinets and leaves open items that can be harmful or fatal. Even if they do no more than get into a cereal box, they can make a mess and eat more than is good for them.

They'll even try to open the refrigerator door. Those are usually too heavy and well-sealed, but their sharp claws can easily tear up the rubber seal on the bottom. Also, they're quick and agile, and good climbers. If not watched carefully, they can wind up inside the fridge (or stove or dryer) when you open it.

Apart from fresh meat and/or a commercial pet food designed for ferrets, it's a good idea to have some mineral and vitamin supplements on hand. Most pet foods will have these supplements built in, but ferrets are individuals and may need extra elements. They're prone to adrenal ailments and certain bone deformations so supplements can be helpful for some.

First, try to imagine that you are a busy, curious ferret. Get low down to the floor and look at everything low enough or having holes large enough for you to investigate. Rest assured your ferret will! Recliner chairs, couches, beds and a whole lot more that are common around houses are spaces that a ferret can and will seek out.

But those spaces can easily turn a curious adventure into a lethal catastrophe. A ferret that winds up under a chair or fold-out bed that is suddenly jerked open or closed can suffer serious injury or death. It will take considerable ingenuity to keep them inaccessible. When you can't, be extra aware of where your ferret is before making any sudden moves.

Staircases are another possible danger. Ferrets can easily make their way up to the second floor and dash off between the rails. Unlike cats, that fall will frequently be fatal. Either child-proof the rails or put up gates at any entrance to keep them off the steps entirely.

Ovens or stoves, dryers, even refrigerators can represent a fascinating new world for your ferret to investigate. But if they wind up there without your knowledge they are likely to get harmed. Even when you don't accidentally turn on the device, getting caught inside an appliance can be harrowing for ferret and human. Keep anything low enough to be accessible off limits.

Since they're so exploratory even closed cabinets are a likely place to find your ferret when you least expect it. If the cabinet is low, they'll roll over and claw the bottom to open it. Then, in they go!

Unfortunately for the health and safety of your companion, most of the things in those cabinets are harmful. Keep cleansers, sponges and other items out of reach by employing a locking system of the sort familiar to parents with infants.

Any hole small enough to fit a head through is irresistible to (and accessible by) a ferret. They were bred to chase rabbits out of burrows. But they can make their own holes too. Sharp teeth and claws mean the ability to get through a screen when they're motivated. Consider an add-on section that makes the lower portion impervious.

The most important element is simply being aware of where your ferret is. That can be harder than keeping track of a two-year old human. But your peace of mind and the safety of your friend depend on it.

Scruffing in response to a bite is the most common technique for 'disciplining' a rowdy ferret. It consists of picking up a ferret by the loose skin of the neck, then holding his mouth closed between thumb and forefinger, while issuing the verbal order 'No!' Then, drag the ferret across the floor a short way to establish dominance.

Be sure not to shake, squeeze or press the ferret during the procedure. They may wiggle to get free, and the more aggressive may even hiss. But the whole idea is to establish that you are the dominant one. That will be easier or more difficult, depending on the ferret's individual personality.

Ferrets who have bonded with their companion will often want company. Isolating a rowdy biter for a few minutes can be a form of behavior modification that reinforces the need to 'play nice'. Distracting them from a finger or another ferret with a toy or treat can also help reduce biting. Take care not to over treat them, though. You don't want to alter their diet, nor to make them overweight.

Beyond behavior modification and training, there are chemical aids that will help redirect them. Fooey and different brands of bitter apple spray can make a finger distasteful. They quickly associate the unpleasant taste with the biting behavior and taper off. For those who are especially aggressive, you can spray a little on a small tongue depressor and let them bite it. Then issue the order 'No!' at the moment of contact.

Just as with dogs, the spray doesn't work with all individuals. Some ignore the bad taste, others don't find it very distasteful. In some cases, it's preferable to go the positive rather than negative route. A bit of Ferretone can turn biting into licking as they usually enjoy the taste.

But don't expect the ferret to have a human, or even dog-like, understanding. They're intelligent and can 'get the idea', but it will require many repetitions of any and all techniques. They're not small, furry humans and can't be reasoned with.

Still, even though they don't reason in a human way, there are some things that are definitely similar. They can feel pleasure and pain, and even a form of happiness or sadness. They become emotionally attached to the human they share quarters with. They can be affected by the attitude of that human.

As such, they should never be subject to physical punishment beyond a scruffing or a slight finger tap. The goal is to adjust a natural behavior so that it doesn't cause injury. Harsh punishment makes for a fearful animal. Fearful animals either become even more aggressive or withdraw. Neither of those is the desired response.

Keep your temper. They don't know they are 'doing bad'.

Before you introduce a newcomer, try to ensure that they carry no diseases they could transmit to the existing ferret(s). They should have at least their initial shots. The closer in age and time you get them, the more likely they are to bond quicker. Dealing with more than one can be a lot of work, but introducing them to the environment no more than a month apart is best.

Fortunately, there are a great many simple techniques that, applied with patience, can usually create one happy family in any scenario.

Ferrets use their sense of smell, in part, to identify who is part of the 'pack' and who is not. But newcomers will introduce an unfamiliar scent, of which the established ferret(s) may be cautious. That hurdle can be turned into an advantage.

Take the new ferret and place it in a second cage near the first one. There may be some hissing and clawing, but neither can do any harm this way. After a day or two, switch part of their bedding, mixing the two scents together. Sometimes in a few days, sometimes a little longer, they'll regard that scent as part of their normal environment.

Then you can introduce the pair face-to-face. Hold one in each arm and let them get close enough to get a good sniff and a look. If you set them down, just as with dogs, it's helpful to have each on a harness leash, at least at first. A certain amount of rough housing and dominance behavior is normal and harmless. But the leashes are there to make sure it doesn't get out of hand.

Wearing leather gloves, let them off the leash in a large but enclosed area, devoid of holes to crawl into. Observe their behavior and make sure no one gets too rowdy. Biting is part of their play, but if it goes too far you can have a wounded ferret with scratches or punctures that can get infected. The gloves are to allow you to pick one or both up without getting scratched or bitten yourself in the heat of battle.

Bathing them together can be a challenge, but will help them mix scents again. That will be made much easier if you have another pair of human hands to help. Controlling two ferrets and bathing them simultaneously would tax anyone.

For those ferrets who persist after a couple of weeks, try some bite deterrent spray. Spray a little around the neck. The odor will discourage the more aggressive one.

Persistence, patience and treats will go a long way toward getting your ferrets to form a social group. But usually sooner rather than later, the newcomer will be looked at as someone to play with. Each will be happier, and you will too.

Some of the external signs that owners should be on the lookout for are large weight loss, lethargy and lack of coordination especially in the hind legs. Healthy ferrets have a high metabolism. They sleep about 18 hours per day, but when they are awake they tend to be extremely active and exploratory.

Naturally, that will decrease somewhat with age, but even older ferrets are still natural 'seekers' and frequently hungry. That's one of the reasons food should be left out for them to eat at will. When they begin to lose a lot of weight, something is wrong. When they become uninterested in their environment, they are usually ill.

Diagnosing insulinomas is usually straightforward. Blood sugar levels are tested from a sample, with the test often repeated after a short fast of a few hours. Insulin levels will often be tested as well. Of course, an external exam for obvious lumps will be performed at the same time the sample is drawn.

Surgery is the most common form of treatment. Visible tumors are removed to reduce the risk of spreading or enlargement. That can also reduce symptoms associated with the tumors. About two weeks later, blood sugar levels will be re-tested, then again every few months to check for re-occurrence.

For those ferrets who aren't good candidates for surgery, or as an adjunct therapy, there are several drugs that are used to treat insulinomas. Prednisone and diazoxide may be used separately or together. They can help manage symptoms, but don't eliminate the underlying disease, which will usually progress.

Diet can help control both the likelihood of getting insulinomas and the severity of the symptoms. A high, meat-based protein (about 35% of the total) and high fat content (15%) is standard for ferrets. But sweets, often used as treats for healthy animals, are eliminated. Just as in humans, they can lead to a hypoglycemic episode and disorientation.

Properly treated, most animals recover from insulinomas and live out a natural span.

Many, of course, do specialize to a degree. And, dogs and cats are the most popular pets so these are the animals they most commonly treat. But since the 1980s, ferrets have become increasingly popular domestic companions. Finding a vet knowledgeable about them, especially in a smaller town or city, can be tough.

Yet, they do exist. You can search the Internet these days, naturally. With the growth of something called 'Local Search', it's possible to type in 'ferret vet' and get back listings that are unique to your zipcode. Using something like the Ferret Vet Zip Code Locator at www.ferrethealth.org/vets/ is also a good option.

In fact, finding a vet BEFORE you get a ferret is a very good idea. At some point, you'll need one and you don't want to have to hunt one down during a time of emergency. If you can't locate one you prefer in your area, you might consider holding off on getting one of these unique pets.

Once you find a potential vet, one who at least claims to be able to treat ferrets, you'll want to ask a few probing questions. The interview would be much as you would have in choosing a vet for your cat or dog, or any other.

You'll want to ensure they're familiar with the common diseases and conditions that ferrets tend to acquire or endure. ECE (or Green Slime), ADV (Aleutian Disease Virus), adrenal and a long list of other diseases are commonly found in ferrets. Note, that doesn't mean that ferrets are commonly disease ridden. They suffer no more than any other domesticated species.

You'll want to get an idea of how the vet approaches treatment. They may educate you in home care to save you time and money, and them from being overwhelmed every time the ferret sneezes. Though, sneezing can be a symptom of upper respiratory infection. Your vet should be able to advise you on ear cleaning, proper diet and other ferret-specific issues.

Like cats and dogs, ferrets need vaccinations. Viruses are known to occur among ferrets just as they do among those other common domestic companions. But it's possible, just as with dogs and cats, for ferrets to suffer allergic reactions to vaccines. It's important for your vet to be knowledgeable about this area. Ignorance can accidentally kill a ferret.

Surgery is sometimes called for. Ferrets love to explore and will chew on just about anything. That opens the possibility of swallowing bits of plastic, Styrofoam cups and a wide variety of other common household items. That can lead to intestinal blocking. They also, as they get older, can be prone to certain tumors. Your vet should be qualified and experienced in performing surgery to treat those issues.

Review your options just as you would for any other pet, and don't be shy about asking potentially uncomfortable questions. Better to have answers you don't like, than results you would hate.